Ben Kaminsky, author of the new book Beyond Botox: 7 Secrets for Sexy, Ageless Skin, says “there is no proof that mineral makeup is purer or better for your skin.” He adds that minerals such as zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and mica have already been in most cosmetics for decades.
What Purpose do Minerals Serve in Makeup?
Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide have anti-inflammatory properties, while mica adds shimmer to makeup like eye shadow and sometimes, blush. If titanium dioxide and zinc oxide sound familiar, they are frequently used as main ingredients in sunscreen. However, that doesn’t mean the makeup should be used instead of sunscreen.
Why are we currently seeing more cosmetic ads for mineral makeup and labels that include natural ores? In one word, marketing. The general public wants to appear ecologically aware and cosmetic companies are willing to exploit the green trend to sell their products. Many consumers feel that seeing words like “mineral” “ore” and “natural” on the label will somehow make that product healthy, or at least, will reduce their carbon footprint.
What to Look For In Natural Cosmetics
Most makeup should be non-comedogenic, in other words, it shouldn’t clog your pores. That is not a promise that all makeup – mineral or otherwise – can promise. Individual skin sensitivities can play a part in reaction to makeup.
Some consumers may choose a mineral cosmetic as a part of a vegan lifestyle. If choosing a cruelty-free cosmetic is a motivator, beware of any makeup that contains carmine, also known as cochineal. While it is an organic product, it is made from the carapace of the Dactylopius Coccus, an insect that yields a rich red dye when ground.
Natural Minerals to Avoid in your Makeup
Even natural cosmetics that include minerals can contain binding ingredients that make it smoother, and easier to apply, but are known skin irritants. Avoiding chemicals like parabens and perfume will make the product less likely to cause a reaction to your skin.
One such danger is bismuth oxychloride. While some say it is natural, as it is made from minerals (it’s a by-product of lead and copper processing), it’s a compound that is used as a medium to bind other ingredients together. Read the label before buying, and avoid products that contain the subsequent minerals:
- Ferric Ferrocyanide
- Chromium Green Oxide (often found in eye shadow and sometimes nail polish)
- Bismuth oxychloride
- Magnesium Stearate (a filler)
- Zinc Stearate (anti-fungal agent)
- Fragrance
- Parabens (known for disrupting hormones)
A rule of thumb to ensure that your makeup will not make your skin break out or dry out is to avoid anything that contains synthetic dyes, fragrances, and preservatives.
Dermatologist Francesca Fusco, MD says that despite a few clever slogans that suggest they are so light you can “sleep with the makeup on”, you should wash your face before bedtime.
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